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Diamond Buying Tips

When buying a diamond, it is vitally important to know about the 4 C's. They are cut, color, clarity, and carat weight. Together, the 4 C's determine a diamond's value. It is essential to learn about each of the 4 C's before purchasing a diamond because each C speaks differently to each individual. For some, the carat weight is the most important while for others it is the cut.

Cut
To many, cut is the most important of the 4 C's. Each diamond is cut using an exact mathematical formula that unleashes its brilliance and fire. It also refers to the number of facets that the diamond has. The most common cut is the round brilliant. The round brilliant has 58 flat, polished facets that reflect the maximum amount of light. The mathematical formula also takes into account the depth of the cut. If a diamond is cut too shallow or too deep it will lose some of its fire. A well-cut diamond will reflect the light and refract it back out to your eye. Cut is not to be confused with shape.

Color
While diamonds come in every color of the spectrum, the most valuable diamond color is colorless. Truly colorless diamonds are extremely rare and as a result are expensive. They are graded on a color scale established by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Diamonds range from D (colorless) to Z. The further down in the alphabet the diamond is, the more yellow it appears. Color can best be determined by looking at a loose diamond on a pure white surface, and by noting any contrast.

Carat
Some people believe that carat refers to the size of a diamond while in actuality; carat is the term used to measure a diamond's weight. A carat is equal to 200 milligrams, and there are 142 carats to an ounce. One carat is made up of one hundred points. The larger the diamond, the greater its rarity. Because larger diamonds are more rare, they generally have a greater value per carat.

Clarity
Internal imperfections and external irregularities affect the clarity of the diamond by interfering with the passage of light throughout the stone. Imperfections such as spots, lines, or bubbles are known as inclusions. The diamond is more valuable when it has fewer inclusions. According to the GIA's quality analysis system, clarity is graded on a scale ranging from flawless (FL or IF) to imperfect (I). The system is based on the visibility of inclusions at a magnification of 10x.

While these are the 4 most recognized C's, a fifth and less recognized, yet equally important C does exist. That is Confidence. Confidence in your jeweler is extremely important when buying this piece of jewelry that will last forever, and be passed down among generations. It is important to shop at a professional jeweler, one that is a member of a professional trade association such as Jewelers of America (JA). JA requires high ethical standards of its members and provides them with ongoing education.
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Know Your Karats
Look for the karat mark, which will tell you that the piece is real gold and the percentage of pure gold it contains. Pure gold, or 24K, has a deeply warm and rich color, but it is extremely soft and easily damaged. For this reason, pieces made from pure gold take on unique stamps of individuality with wear. Oftentimes, gold is alloyed with other metals, such as copper, silver, nickel and zinc to give it strength and durability. Different proportions of these alloys also give gold its rose, green, or white coloration. 18K gold is 75% gold; 14K is 58.5%; and 10K is 41.6%. The higher the karatage, the richer the color will be and the more costly. In the U.S. jewelry must be at least 10K to be legally sold as real gold. (In Canada and Mexico , the minimum legal standard of karatage is 9K and 8K respectively.) Imported gold jewelry may be stamped with different numbers. For example, the European marking for 14 karat gold jewelry is 585; for 18K it is 750. Note: Don't be confused with "carats," the weight and measure used for diamonds and other gems.

Look For The Trademark
On karat-marked jewelry sold in the U.S., always look for the manufacturer's trademark. By U.S. law it must be there. When there's a hallmark, it means the manufacturer stands behind the accuracy of the karat mark. You may also find the country of origin marked.

Evaluate The Price
In addition to karat weight, the price of gold jewelry is determined by several factors: total weight; design and construction; and ornamental detailing, such as engraving or Florentine finish. Although nearly all gold jewelry today is made with the help of special machines, some handwork is always involved. The more there is, the higher the price. The good news is that through modern manufacturing technology, large, lightweight, and exciting pieces can be surprisingly affordable.

Check The Clasp
When buying a gold necklace or bracelet, make sure you examine the clasp to see if it is strong enough to support the chain, especially if the piece does not have a hallmark. Run your hand over the chain and look for any rough edges. A well-made piece of gold jewelry should look and feel like the quality piece it is. And if you take the time to look it over, you will have a piece that, with good care, can last a lifetime.
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Cultured Pearls Buying Tips

A reputable jeweler is your best source for cultured pearls. A knowledgeable jeweler can explain how to balance a number of quality and size variables to get the best selection available within a certain price range. You will be able to evaluate pearls on the basis of the following criteria: Note: Your computer screen resolution and color setting may affect pearl color, lustre and actual sizes as compared to viewing with the naked eye.

Lustre
Pin by Elizabeth Blair
The combination of surface brilliance and a deep-seated glow, the luster of a good-quality pearl should be bright, not dull. Your reflection should be seen clearly on the surface of a pearl. Any pearl that looks too chalky or dull indicates low quality.

Surface
Cleanliness of the pearl surface refers to the absence of disfiguring spots, bumps or cracks. A pearl with a clean surface will have a higher value than a spotted, bumpy or cracked one.

Shape
Earrings by Jessica Fields
Since cultured pearls are grown by oysters and subject to the whims of Mother Nature, it is very rare to find a perfectly round pearl. While rounder pearls are more valuable, asymmetrical, or baroque, pearls have a unique charm and are available at a more moderate cost.

Color
Rose Silver/White Cream Gold Blue/Gray Cultured pearls occur in colors from rosé to black. While color is a matter of preference, rosé or silver/white pearls tend to look best on fair skin tones, while cream and gold-tone pearls are flattering to darker complexions.

Size
Measured by their diameter in millimeters, the average cultured pearls sold today are between 7 and 71/2 millimeters. Generally, the larger the pearl, the more valuable it will be.
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Platinum Buying Tips

What Is Platinum?
Beneath its subtle beauty and understated elegance lie the properties which make platinum truly unique.

Platinum Is Strong
It is the heaviest of the precious metals, weighing almost twice as much as karat gold. Its strength ideally secures diamonds and other precious gems. Even after many years, platinum will not wear away or wear down.

Platinum Is Pure
In America, platinum jewelry contains either 90% or 95% pure platinum. By comparison, 18K gold is 75% pure and 14 karat is 57% pure gold. Only platinum will never tarnish or lose its rich white luster. Because platinum is so pure, it is hypoallergenic.

Platinum Is Rare
Ten tons of ore must be mined to produce a single ounce of platinum. It takes five months to process platinum ore into pure platinum. Only after this time can skilled hands work their creativity and craftsmanship, transforming platinum into pieces of wearable art.

How To Buy And Care For Platinum Jewelry
Platinum jewelry made in America contains either 90% or 95% pure platinum. Platinum jewelry marked "IRIDPLAT" contains 90% platinum and 10% iridium. When marked "PLAT" an item is at least 95% platinum, with 5% ruthenium.

Whether you are choosing a ring, pin, bracelet, necklace or bridal jewelry, you will find new and sophisticated platinum designs.

Platinum jewelry should be cleaned the same way you clean other fine jewelry. Use a pre-packaged jewelry cleaner or have it professionally cleaned by your jeweler. As with all precious jewelry, store with care, not allowing pieces to touch or scratch each other.

An experienced jeweler can assist you in selecting platinum jewelry that will bring pleasure to you and the recipient for years to come.
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Watch Buying Tips

Buying a watch is an exciting prospect. Today, people often want to express different sides of themselves at different times, and owning a watch wardrobe has become commonplace. The average individual owns between three and four watches - a number that is on the rise. Prestige watches are a particularly popular category, with everything from sport to dress to dramatically different timepieces in the hot spot. With almost 1.2 billion watches produced annually, there is an abundance of styles from which to choose. Reviewing these important facts from Jewelry Information Center, a New York based non-profit trade association, will help you make a savvy purchase - a timepiece that can be passed down to future generations.

Buy from Authorized Retailer Outlets
Be sure the professional jeweler or watch dealer you're purchasing from is authorized to sell the brand. "This is especially true in the case of higher-end luxury watches when sometimes the watch warranty or guarantee is not considered valid by the watchmaker if the dealer is not authorized." For a list of professional jewelers in your area, visit the retailer locator on www.jewelers.org. Be sure the jeweler is affiliated with a professional trade association, such as Jewelers of America, which requires high ethical standards of its members and provides them with ongoing education. When buying online, go first to the manufacturer's Web site, which will then direct you to authorized online dealers. Note the fine print and the window of return time in the site's return policy.

Understand The Technology
Quartz watches-- comprising approximately 90 percent of all watches produced today -- are perhaps the easiest, most low-maintenance timepieces one can buy. They need no winding and no special attention. With quartz technology, the watch is powered by a quartz crystal and a battery. The "brain" of the watch is the integrated circuit; the source of energy consists of a miniature battery that typically lasts about two to three years before needing replacement. Quartz watches are extremely accurate, varying only about one minute per year.

For the lover of perfection and craftsmanship, mechanical timepieces hold a special allure. A mechanical movement typically consists of at least 130 individual components on a frame with an escapement, balance wheel and hairspring to drive the watch. A manual (self-wind) movement requires the wearer to wind the watch. An automatic movement keeps itself in sync via a motor that turns by the force of gravity from regular movements of the wearer's wrist. Mechanical timepieces, just like a fine car, need oil and relubricating every few years to keep them in optimum running condition.

Consider The Metals Used
Generally, fine watches are offered in steel, 14 or 18 karat gold, or platinum, and combinations thereof. Each metal possesses different benefits. Gold is softer than steel and in very rugged conditions, it might scratch. It is, however, the top metal of choice for fine watch-making, as it offers old world elegance. Platinum, too, is often used by prestige brands as it is the rarest and hardest of all precious metals. Stainless steel and titanium are durable materials that work well as flexible bracelets on sportier watches.

Look at Variable Cost Considerations
The price of a watch isn't always contingent strictly upon the materials used for the case, bracelet or crystal. Often, 50 to 75 percent of the cost of a watch comes from what's inside it. If it's a mechanical timepiece, or a complicated timepiece that offers additional functions and can have as many as 600 or more individual parts, the price is immediately significantly higher because of the work that went into creating the movement. Price is also varied by the extras that a watch may offer, such as a diamond bezel or gemstone markers. These additions make the timepiece more valuable, thus more expensive.

Consider The Watch Features/Benefits
Besides the time-keeping functions, many watches have more to offer. There are chronographs (watches that combine stopwatch functions for measurement of continuous or discontinuous intervals of time), alarm watches (that offer an alarm mode), dual-time zone watches (that offer the time in more than one zone), watches with moon phase indicators or power reserve indicators (that indicate power life left before needing rewinding), and perpetual calendars (that offer a calendar day/date readout that automatically adjusts for months of varying length and for leap years).

Know About Durability and Reliability
Reliability is a key factor in choosing a watch -- especially a sport watch. To be deemed water resistant, most fine watches are subjected to a pressure test equivalent to a diver's depth of 100 feet. If the watch shows no sign of internal humidity or damage, it can be called water resistant. Degrees of water resistance vary: 50 meters is almost standard, but many watches are resistant to several hundred meters or more. Chronometers, that are tested in a Swiss observatory under stringent conditions in various positions, and extreme temperatures, heights and depths, and are then certified, are considered among the more reliable and durable wristwatches.

Look for Warranties/Guarantees
Every watch manufacturer offers some warranty on its timepieces. Typically, the warranty is for one year, but some companies offer several years and some even offer extended warranties that cover the case or bracelet as well as the movement. Make sure the watch comes with its original packaging, boxing and informational materials. Be sure to get a detailed, itemized receipt.

Ask About After-Sales Service
Before buying, know about the back-up support of the brand and the retailer. Be sure to find out if the retailer has an after-sales service facility on premises if repairs are needed, and if the brand has a U.S. service center. If you buy a name brand watch from a jewelry store and feel that is not authentic, contact the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC), a not-for-profit trade association, formed in 1912, whose mission is to maintain the jewelry industry's highest ethical standards. The JVC can be contacted at (800) 564-6582.
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